Patzcuareando: Peripatetic in Patzcuaro

Patzcuaro’s Muffin Lady

2012-01-19T16:31:00.000-06:00

More about food. Yes, we like to eat. For years we have enjoyed smiling Maria Elena’s home-baked muffins, quick-breads, cookies and little payes de queso. Most of what she offers is made with whole wheat and very little sugar. The muffins with hot coffee make a delicious breakfast variation; a pay de queso is an indulgent taste treat.

You can usually find her from about 5:30 or 6:00 pm until about 9:00 pm from Sunday through Friday. Go to the Northwest corner of Iturbe where it T’s at Plaza Vasco de Quiroga (Plaza Grande), right across the street from Mansión Iturbe.

Buén provecho.

Happy 2012

2012-01-12T13:03:00.001-06:00

A new year of good things.
Adelante.

My Lush Floripondio

2011-12-20T19:24:00.004-06:00

The Floripondio/Datura in the garden flourish. The sap is said to contain scopolamine. I content myself with inhaling the scent of the blossoms that trails heavily through the night air. I love my garden.

My Noche Buena/Poinsettia for Christmas.

A Living Catrina?

2011-11-03T09:03:00.001-06:00

There is always a surprise on Pátzcuaro’s Plaza Grande.

Night of the Dead

2011-11-02T07:40:00.000-06:00

In the Lake Pátzcuaro region, Noche de Muertos / Night of the Dead is observed on the night from November 1 to 2. The ritual is steeped in the beliefs and traditions of the indigenous Purhépecha. Most of Mexico observes Day of the Dead. A visit at night to the cemeteries of the pueblos around the lake is a poignant experience of sight, sound and scent.

Night of the Dead slideshow on Flickr.
About Night of the Dead.

A quiet villa in Pátzcuaro.

Around the Plazas

2011-11-01T11:39:00.001-06:00

“Trick or Treat” from El Norte has trickled south to Pátzcuaro. Only in the last couple of years did one see children around the plazas asking for moneditas (small coins) for their calabacitas (little pumpkins, plastic or real). The adopted custom has morphed into something more local. There is no trick, just treat. And the children get far more mileage from the activity than in El Norte. They run around the plazas with their calabacitas for days—and nights—on end.

Someone whom many of you know, so I will not give a name, has a quirky sense of humor. I saw three children come up to him. He smiled broadly, dipped his hand in a calabacita and fished out a few coins. “Gracias,” he said, pocketing the coins, to the children’s speechless shock. When they found their tongues, they finally chorused “No, no….”. He laughed and returned the moneditas.

Another favorite activity of ours is eating. Today we breakfasted at Café Gourmet San Diego on Calle Ramos, between Plaza Chica and Farmacia Guadalajara. They serve as early as 8:30 AM and I have yet to see a foreigner present.

They have several fixed menus, starting at Pesos $35. My breakfast was fresh-squeezed orange juice, huevos a la mexicana, refried beans, and a basket of bread including rolls with whole wheat that were, I am sure, from Rivepan. The café is Nescafé. We modified our order and I asked for hot milk with my coffee. To my pleasure, I received a cup with frothy steamed milk to which I added Nescafé. When we left Pesos $10 was added for each of us for our special coffee order, which was fine (in my experience, a charge is added for any modification to the fixed menu). I am an aficionada of good, dark roast coffee, which I make with an espresso machine but I go to Café San Diego for the breakfast, having already had my first cup of coffee at home. A good almuerzo for a total of Pesos $45 per person.

Love Pátzcuaro?

Altars and Offerings

2011-10-31T07:00:00.000-06:00

Altars and offerings for Noche de Muertos / Night of the Dead have been set up in many in public and private places, an integral part of the rituals that precede November 1st and 2nd in the Lake Pátzcuaro region.

More about Altars & Offerings.

Living in the Centro Histórico.

Las Flores –The Flowers

2011-10-30T12:10:00.001-06:00

The flowers (zempasúcitl / marigolds) and their fragrance fill Calle Serrato next to the Basílica. Don’t miss a stroll along this street where people go to buy flowers for Night of the Dead / Noche de Muertos. The flowers will be used for decorations, altars and at the cemeteries.

A field of zempasúchitl flowers.

Flower slide show on Flickr.

Pátzcuaro living.

Folk Art on the Plaza Grande

2011-10-29T11:40:00.001-05:00

The tianguis were up yesterday on Plaza Vasco de Quiroga and during the night wares streamed in with the artesans and vendors. The plaza should be in full swing today presaging observance of Noche de Muertos/Night of the Dead.

The two biggest celebrations in Pátzcuaro are Semana Santa and Noche de Muertos. It is an indulgence to peruse and enjoy arts and crafts from all over Michoacán—and beyond—gathered in one place.

Typical Tianguis on Plaza Grande
See Callejón del Sol, just two blocks from Plaza Grande.

Harbingers of Noche de Muertos

2011-10-18T07:00:00.001-05:00

Night of the Dead will soon be here. The earliest harbingers are the confections, los dulces, which have just appeared on Plaza Vasco de Quiroga.

We sit under the portal. Sugar and chocolate skulls fix on us with vacuous eyes from their display tables. Deep in their conversations, local warlocks congregate thickly at tables of six and eight, elbow to elbow with the sweet and bedecked skeletons and bones. Few women are here this evening at 7:00 PM.

Sweets for the Night of the Dead
Near Plaza Vasco de Quiroga

The rains have passed…

2011-10-07T21:22:00.001-05:00

…and myriad flowers regale our eyes. I stand and drink in the fields of Cosmos as their faces follow the sun.

Flora and Fauna
Rain
Patzcuaro…life is good.

Bus from Morelia to Austin

2011-09-25T15:33:00.001-05:00

This summer I traveled on an Omnibus Mexicanos bus from Morelia to Austin, Texas. The whole trip is on the same bus with no changes. It departs from Morelia at 3:00 PM and from Morelia to Austin the trip takes approximately 23 hours. Traveling northward, the bus made several stops in the Bajío of Guanajuato; it also stopped in San Miguel and San Luís Potosí. We stopped for 30 minutes for comida around 9:00 or 10:00 PM on Hwy 57.

To enter the U.S. one got off the bus and claimed one’s baggage from the hold. First passenger documents were checked, then bags were scanned. The total process for all the passengers took approximately 30 minutes. All buses crossing the border into the U.S.—and there was a line of them—were scanned by a large vehicle that pulled up beside each one and slowly scanned the whole bus through the top. As I recall, this process took another 30 minutes. Passengers stood waiting on the U.S side. We were never more than a few bus lengths away from our bus. Most purchased coffee and tacos at a small restaurant right at the bridge. We then re-checked our bags, boarded and the bus was on its way.

The bus ended up only half full, it was roomy and it had a bathroom. Caveat: take a jacket, a small pillow, water and ear-plugs for the movies.

Cost: Pesos $1270 one way Morelia-Austin. Only 5% discount is given for an INAPAM card on this international route. You can make reservations in Patzcuaro. A small deposit is requested and you are given a voucher. One must then purchase the actual ticket before boarding in Morelia, where credit is given for the deposit.

Practicalities
Patzcuaro Living

Buén Provecho Salad

2011-09-03T19:12:00.001-05:00

Just look at this mouth-watering assortment of tasty greens complete with edible flowers, ready for a dressing of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. At Patzcuaro’s Buén Provecho Mercado at Posada Yolihuani on Friday mornings, Gaby sells her home-grown, hand-picked, washed and disinfected salad greens, packaged and crisped, ready to place by the handful in a salad bowl. This effortless salad was a taste bud treat.I like the Buén Provecho Mercado. Yesterday I purchased salad greens, a loaf of Ivo’s whole grain bread, brownies to indulge in with dark-roast-espresso-machine-home-brewed fragrant coffee, and tamales. I am crazy for tamales and my all-time favorite is the Oaxacan tamal wrapped in banana leaf. Much to my delight, these are now being offered. There are other treats to be procured in this venue, I am just citing some of my favorites. And I get to see nice people in a charming setting.

Incredible Edibles
Walk to Patzcuaro’s Mercado(s)

A what?

2011-09-02T20:37:00.001-05:00

One never knows what one will see when out and about, patzcuareando. Yes, that is an elephant ambling along Patzcuaro’s Libramiento. I particularly like the yellow chair.

Batty in Pátzcuaro

2011-08-29T11:01:00.001-05:00

Yesterday, before dawn, the sound of something falling awakened me instantly. My eyes went from sleep to wide open. Somebody or something was in my house. I arose silently. Something else fell. It was in my bathroom. I padded over to the door quietly. There was something large flying around frantically and it knocked a third item over on the counter. As I turned toward the window where a small window pane was open, it landed on my back and grabbed on to my shirt. We like bats, but that made me jerk my shoulders. My interest did not extend to providing piggy-back service.

I am most familiar with this Mexican Free-Tailed Ba species.
Our Pátzcuaro birder par excellence, Georgia Conti, identifies one local species as a murciélago nevado.

Mr/Ms Murciélago let go and flapped all around the bedroom. I isolated it in there by closing the bathroom and the hall door and opened wide two large side-by-side window panes. I slipped out and went to prepare my first-cup-of-the-day-heavenly-coffee. When I came back the bat had found its way out to freedom.

This morning, about the same time, I awoke more gradually to the sound of flaps cruising around above me in the bedroom. Funny. Since I knew what it was, today’s bat seemed definitely smaller than yesterday’s. I arose and opened the windows but never saw the bat go out. When daylight came I checked all the vigas and tejamanil inside the house but found no little creature clinging. I hope it got out. I will check again.

There are roughly 4,000 mammal species in the world. Of those, almost 25% are bats. (You can search for precise numbers.) Many plants of desert eco-systems would disappear if bats did not pollinate the night-opening flowers. Bats get a bad rap because of the three known species of vampire bats; you are more likely to suffer from a mosquito-bourne disease than to be bitten by a bat.

Check out Bat Conservation International.

Patzcuaro flora and fauna.
Get batty in Patzcuaro.

Bus Austin to Morelia

2011-08-22T09:02:00.001-05:00

I recently had occasion to travel from Austin to Morelia by bus for the first time. Striking out with online searches, to find the bus that I thought existed I ended up driving to a bus station on East 7th Street in Austin. A very nice person there called three different bus companies and I finally found what I was looking for: a bus from Austin to Morelia with no bus changes and no stops in Monterrey or Saltillo. Once I obtained this information I was able to find the site http://www.omnibusmexicanos.com.mx/
which did not come up on my Google searches in either Spanish or English.

I phoned the Austin ticket vendor for information and, between side discussions of orders for taquitos and barbacoa, I obtained a departure time and price. The bus leaves daily at 10:30 PM. I reconfirmed this information with the bus office in San Antonio, which seems to handle only bus tickets.The company is Omnibus Mexicanos and the Austin ticket vendor is the abarrotes store, “La Moreliana”; they also call this bus La Moreliana. (The inside of the Austin store was full of dulces michoacanos and it was run by a michoacano.)

La Moreliana, Austin - 512-851-2909
Omnibus Mexicanos, San Antonio – 210-271-9559

The skinny: Purchase the ticket at La Moreliana at 3600 S. Congress, Austin, approximately two blocks north of Ben White/Hwy 290, on the West side. The price is $118.00 payable in cash only. I purchased my ticket a few days in advance. They ask you to arrive at 10:00 PM. They say the trip takes 20 hours, plus any extra time spent crossing the bridge into Nuevo Laredo. I recommend taking at least 2 quarts of water and ear plugs to defend against a few of the movies. The bus is comfortable, seats recline, it has a bathroom, and the driver(s) pleasant.

I arrived at 10:00 PM, as recommended. It is best to have someone take you who can wait with you so you can sit in a car. The store is closed, and the bus came at 11:00 PM. The temperature at that time of night was 100 degrees F, and the bus was cooled down to the high 60’s F. I saw that most people had a pillow and a fleecy blanket. I needed both.

The bus originates, I believe, in Dallas. It stops in Austin, we stopped in San Antonio and then in Laredo. In Laredo a new “bridge driver” takes over just to cross into Mexico. Those on board who needed tourist visas said it was quick and that they received help filling out the forms. On the Mexico side, a person in camouflage uniform boarded with an automatic rifle. He picked two men who took their carry-on luggage with them and got their suitcases out from stowage to have them searched. Quick and no problem. Then the driver announced that if the passengers wanted to pay a cooperación, “entirely voluntary”, that we would get a green light and go through customs quickly. No collection was made. It did take an hour to get across into Nuevo Laredo. I could not tell what the wait was; there were buses in all lanes ahead of us and maybe it just took that long to process us through; we did not have any apparent problems with customs. I asked about this afterwards. The (new) driver explained that one of the passengers has to initiate the voluntary collection for customs and the going fee is US$10.00 per person. A Mexican friend of mine from Salamanca had told me some time ago that she paid this $10.00 when traveling home by bus. People often do it if they are in a hurry to be on their way or if they are loaded with gifts for family.

In Nuevo Laredo we went to the bus terminal. They dropped us off at the terminal for 20 minutes while they cleaned the bathroom. The special bridge driver was replaced by two new drivers. At this stop, everyone takes their carry-on items of value off the bus with them(not pillows, blankets, etc.) The luggage compartment had been sealed with an Aduana tape. The bus returned promptly and we departed.

At approximately 9:30 AM we stopped for breakfast for exactly 30 minutes at a roadside restaurant south of Saltillo. We bypassed Matehuala and stopped at San Luís Potosí. At approximately 4:30 PM we again stopped for exactly 30 minutes for comida. The bus would have stopped at Querétaro but no one was getting off there. The next stop was at Salvatierra; we did not stop at Moroleón, a regular stop, but no one needed to get off. We arrived at the Central de Autobuses in Morelia at 8:30 PM; the soonest arrival possible would be 6:30 PM.

Buén viaje.

Philip Russell’s Presentation on Mexico

2011-08-21T08:56:00.000-05:00

What a pleasure to gather with such a congenial group in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán. Thank you Philip for an original and interesting presentation, and thanks to all who participated. You were good company and contributed thought-provoking questions.

Cultural Events
Patzcuaro Photos
Callejón del Sol

Mexico Specialist to Speak in Patzcuaro

2011-08-06T15:10:00.001-05:00

Mark Saturday, August 20, 5:00 PM on your calendar. You are in for a treat.

You are invited to hear author Philip Russell speak on Mexico past and present. His sixth book on Mexico was just published: The History of Mexico: From Pre-Conquest to Present. It is available in print and on Kindle, in English.

WHERE:
House at Callejón del Sol #3, Pátzcuaro Centro
This address is located 2 blocks south of Plaza Grande, between Dr. Coss and Romero streets.
On Calle Esperanza, next to #16, enter the gate to Callejón del Sol.

See Google Map

Glen and I have known Philip since the early 1990’s. We recently attended an engaging talk that Philip gave during which he explained the relevance of Mexico’s history and economy to its place in our present, global world. His presentation (in English) , independent of his book, is well worth hearing. He has spoken widely on Mexico, having received repeat speaking invitations from Stanford and three Ivy League schools.

We are pleased that Philip has agreed to speak in Patzcuaro. He is a knowledgeable and multifaceted person. He became fascinated by Mexico many years ago when visiting to explore caves. Subsequently he spent many months hitching around with a backpack and hiking to Indian villages that lacked roads. He is still an indefatigable hiker. His exposure to Mexico became more conventional, but still diverse. He repeatedly served as expedition interpreter for the National Science Foundation expeditions searching for monarch butterfly overwintering sites. He won an award for ecotourism development from the city of Bustamante, Nuevo León, for building a trail to the city's tourist cave. This year the Sierra Club recognized him as outstanding outings leader for the state of Texas. Philip traveled with all six Mexican presidential campaigns in 1988 as part of the press and twice has been an official presidential election observer, including once in Patzcuaro. He has served as expert witness on immigration matters in federal court. His writings have appeared in sources ranging from the Austin Chronicle to the New York Times.

All this and Philip has a wry sense of humor, too. Don't miss his talk.

From Mexico Labor News and Analysis - [A] very thorough, useful, and readable history of Mexico. The author presents a clear, well informed, and well argued interpretation of Mexican history which emphasizes the country’s economic and social foundations, its political evolution and which takes up at every turn the issues of class, race, gender, the environment, and foreign relations…

Some other events enjoyed.

Patzcuaro’s Lacquer Folk Art

2011-07-01T07:03:00.000-05:00

Pátzcuaro is known for its hand-loomed textiles and for its ornate and beautiful lacquerware that is hand-painted with brilliant colors highlighted with gold leaf.

From time to time, I visit Lacas Pátzcuaro, located at Dr. Coss 10-A, just south of Plaza Grande. I like to watch the owner there paint free-hand his intricate designs. He tells me that his business has been continuously in operation for over fifty years, started by his father before him. I note the rubric Maestro José Ramírez Guido & Sons on his business card.

We wanted a special gift to take to a cousin in Europe so I called on Maestro Ramírez. I chose a plate with a design that included the Monarch butterfly. The Maestro suggested personalizing the piece with the name of the recipient. Not wanting to mar the artistry of his work, I asked him to put the name and dedication on the back and was pleased with the results.

Maestro Ramírez will do custom pieces for you. Don’t miss visiting him if you have the opportunity.

You might like Folk Art & Crafts.
Sol y Luna is just 2 blocks away.

El Asadero Restaurant

2011-06-08T16:13:00.000-05:00

Over the years, I have enjoyed many a meal at El Asadero, across from Mansión de los Sueños, just off Plaza Grande. I like picking exactly what I want and my custom plate is then brought to my table. There is usually a vegetable or two.They tell me that I am more likely to find vegetables during the week because on week-ends people come from the campo to town and they want to eat meat. Pleasant and economically priced.

Be close to El Asadero.

Like to eat?

Snoozing

2011-05-26T15:50:00.000-05:00

Catching zzzz’s, waiting, still waiting…

Morning Serenade

2011-05-17T06:29:00.000-05:00

I love morning sounds—and I do like El Ga-a-a-a-a-z, a typical Pátzcuaro morning serenade. Does this not make you nostalgic? For something?
Be serenaded.

My Film Career un-Début

2011-05-10T17:35:00.004-05:00

I was finally discovered. A woman chased me across the Plaza Grande and followed me down a side street as I headed for Plaza Chica. She entreated me to be an extra in a documentary to bring visitors to Michoacán. I was well-qualified for my road to stardom: I looked foreign and I was to be a Turista.

To make a long story shorter, we agreed that, although I was not available that day to go to Santa Clara, we would meet the next day and I would go with the film crew to the Yácatas at Tzintzuntzan. I invited good-natured and, as it turned out, hapless friend NV to share in the glory of a Turista part, as well. This was lucky for me, but we will get to that.

The next day we were to meet at Noon. The time was changed to 5:00 PM, then re-changed to 6:00 PM. We were flexible. NV and I hopped in a van with film crew and took off, on our way to fame and fortune.

The film crew had a lot to set up.

Pelota de Fuego players wait.

We arrived at the Yácatas. The Director did not like the blouses we were wearing with our capris and we were decked out with something else. We finally passed muster.

The dressing-room.

We got to see the rehearsal for the Pelota de Fuego. I captured this short video clip, but when I wanted to get more I was shooed away. The Director did not want to burn up the Turistas he said. “Mala publicidad.” (Note the singed grass.) I like the coup de grâce when the Pelota de Fuego is smothered with a bucket.

We went back to the dressing-room to wait. Another Turista, JA, was re-dressed several times. Then final touches were added to his hair with gel.

It got later and darker. When will we start I asked. “Just another thirty minutes.” It got much darker. Just another hour they said.

At some point, after being dressed and coiffed, these lovelies were dismissed; it was decided they would not be used.

It was now pitch black outside and the time was 9:30 PM. My friend’s husband had arrived—in his car!—earlier. I talked to a sub-director and said that we could only wait another thirty minutes. He talked by radio with the Director. We would start in an hour. And the shooting would only take two hours. We would be on our way back to Patzcuaro before 1:00 AM. I said that I was sorry, that I wanted to give my apoyo for a documentary to promote Michoacán, but that I needed to leave by 10:00 PM if shooting did not begin by then. (I had been up since 6:00 AM; I had commitments all day the next day.)

Some of the last comments I heard from the Director over the radio were to send “Felipe” (or someone) to find another Turista. And to go get carnitas for dinner for the crew and the extras. As NV’s husband drove us back toward Pátzcuaro, I wondered where one snatches up wandering Turistas at that time of night at the Yácatas or in the little town of Tzintzuntzan, and where does one buy carnitas? Or how would I have gotten a taxi if I were not riding home with friends?

I realize that there was a cultural disjuncture in this scenario, but probably not the one which first comes to your mind. The principal disjuncture was between Pátzcuaro and the D.F. At 10:00 PM in the D.F. the crew members would probably normally think about getting dressed and where to go for dinner. The night would be young. Patzcuaro rolls up its sidewalks by 9:00 PM.

This film crew worked in Pátzcuaro and surrounding areas from April 16th to the 29th. They were very nice. I am sure the documentary will be well done and I very much look forward to seeing it. I wish I were in it. I am matutinal, not a night owl. Darn. Tell me if you see the documentary.

You, too, can patzcuarear.

The Burning of Judas

2011-04-25T14:08:00.005-05:00

It’s a party on the plaza. Throngs of people loose little children who scurry around like ants. The excitement raises with exploding, brilliant fireworks. We shriek and dodge behind thick stone pillars to escape rockets that shoot right at us. It is not likely that one will enjoy such interactive entertainment in one of the eighteen so-categorized industrialized (and rule-bound) nations.

Judas is paraded around on a pole and set on fire. To the crowd’s delight he is stuffed with more fireworks and not only burns but blows to pieces.
What attributes does one associate with a Judas through lore and such experiences, I wonder. Somewhere deep down, does one learn that it is acceptable to deal with perceived “Judas” characteristics with fire and mayhem? It seems that lurking in the psyche, saved to file, there must lie a Burning of Judas model that colors perceptions and behavior.
But I wax philosophical. Maybe it is just a party. We did have fun—and I didn’t see anyone lose an eyebrow to a rocket.
This year the Burning of Judas took place at Patzcuaro’s Plazuela de San Francisco. Although I did not go this year, I have in years past. I enjoyed brilliant fireworks in the sky from my house.

The Burning of Judas takes place the evening of Easter Sunday.

Joyous Easter Sunday

2011-04-25T14:03:00.002-05:00

Celebrating the Resurrection on Domingo de Páscua, clothes in dolorous black and purple give way to bright white and white accents. As the evening mass takes place in the Basílica with doors wide flung open to embrace worshippers, in the front courtyard spirits lift.

Spirits Rise

If I stand by the doors to the church, I can hear mass and merriment at the same time. In the courtyard, people gather and wait to form ranks to parade through the streets.

Finishing touches are added to the float for the procession that will go from La Basílica to the Templo de San Francisco.

Viewing the front of this truck, I wonder if the driver needs a periscope.

Procession of Silence

2011-04-25T13:51:00.002-05:00

On the Saturday between Good Friday and Easter Sunday, the Procession of Silence, many blocks long, wound its solemn way through Pátzcuaro streets from the Templo de San Francisco to Plaza de la Basílica. The periodic single beat of a drum paced the deliberate walkers and from time to time the short, mournful wail of a trumpet pierced the evening air.

The participants made ready to start their march in the courtyard of the Templo de San Francisco.

The disquieting hooded figures are called the Hermanos Encapuchados (the Hooded Brothers). Lay men of the community are inducted into this group.

Viernes Santo

2011-04-23T14:20:00.001-05:00

The main procession for Good Friday in Pátzcuaro was listed for 7:00 PM in the printed schedule of events, if one consults such things. Of course I knew that it would take place on Pátzcuaro time, not clock time. Even so, it was close to 8:00 pm before the solemn participants started trailing down from Plaza La Basílica toward Siete Esquinas. I wanted a good viewing point and, along with many other spectators, felt I had been sitting a very long time on the very hard curbside. Ouch. At that point I stood up, no longer needing to guard my little space to sit hip-to-hip.

The skies were a little cloudy and the sun very low, so the day had soon progressed well past twilight into night.

Viernes Santo 2011

VIEW SLIDE SHOW

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Good Friday in Pátzcuaro

2011-04-22T14:38:00.003-05:00

Stations of the Cross (Way of Sorrows, Via Dolorosa or Via Crucis ) refers to the depiction of the final hours (the Passion) of Jesus and to the devotion commemorating the Passion. In Pátzcuaro residents of many different neighborhoods enacted living tableaux. The principal representation of the Via Crucis is the large, solemn procession through the pueblo.

At Calle Esperanza & Romero

Living persons are on the crosses.

Folk Art & Wares

2011-04-20T12:29:00.001-05:00

Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, aka Plaza Grande, is full of color, crafts and wares in the Tianguis set up for Semana Santa. People from all over Mexico as well as from other countries enjoy perusing and purchasing items from the various booths. The restaurants all over Patzcuaro are full of people talking, laughing and eating.

Our Lady of Sorrows

2011-04-16T10:56:00.001-05:00

Yesterday Friday of Sorrows ushered in Semana Santa, the Holy Week preceding Easter, with a focus on Our Lady of Sorrows. Over the past week Patzcuarenses were busy preparing altars venerating this manifestation of the Virgin Mary. One can see that the faithful suffer strong mental and emotional anguish, to them real and part of their living present, as they condole with the grief of Nuestra Señora de los Dolores for the pending crucifixion of her Son. This is a time of dolorous observance.

Rest in Peace – Que en Paz Descanse

2011-04-13T14:54:00.001-05:00

Mexicans mock death with the unique catrinas, skulls and skeletons so often featured in folk art. These tombstones make a good complement.

(Photographer unknown)

Live and play in Patzcuaro.

Hiking Cerro Burro

2011-03-26T08:00:00.003-06:00

Another good place to hike is Cerro Burro, not far from Pátzcuaro. The steep road will give you a work-out and the views are beautiful.

Hiking Cerro Blanco

2011-03-19T14:30:00.001-06:00

Setting out on the east side of Pátzcuaro through a residential neighborhood, many locals like to hike and run on Cerro Blanco. This good hike offers easy access and one can make it long or short.

Hiking Estribo Grande’s Skirt

2011-03-12T09:00:00.000-06:00

For this outing, we hiked the falda on the north side of Estribo Grande, which overlooks Lake Pátzcuaro. The trail is not as steep as when we ascend to the two volcano craters, but this is still a hike at fairly high elevation. We start out at 7200 feet in Pátzcuaro.

Enjoy Patzcuaro.
Patzcuareando

Hiking at Lake Zirahuén

2011-03-05T08:00:00.000-06:00

We also like to hike around Lake Zirahuén, a distance of some twenty kilometers. Plan about four hours to take some time to enjoy the beautiful setting. We finished up by eating good quesadillas--the flor de calabaza (squash blossom) and cheese quesadillas I found particularly tasty.

Hiking in Ejido Jamuquén

2011-02-26T13:19:00.002-06:00

From time to time, leaving from Patzcuaro, we hike in the large Ejido Jamuquén with the required permission of the Comisariado, who likes to accompany us with the Vigilante. One first passes under the cuota to Morelia, to the south of Pátzcuaro. The Vigilante has spent his whole life in these woods, riding and walking, and as a boy hunted for his father’s lost cattle. He entertains us with endless stories and points out landmarks, springs, plants and wildlife. He is a colorful character, part of a passing era.

Passing under the cuota.

Through the bosque.

The ejidatarios' chapel sheltering Nuestra Señora.

Our companions and guide for this trek.

Hiking Estribo Grande

2011-02-19T13:00:00.002-06:00

With friends we recently hiked the south side of Estribo Grande, up to the two volcano craters. One can go to the top and, as an alternative route down, descend to the look-out point on the north side and then return on the road. A nice hike, with good views.

¿Como? How?

2011-02-05T07:00:00.002-06:00

é ¿ ão ó à

ñ ç ü à

Recently some people asked in an online forum how to type accents in Spanish. For a number of years I have used the Windows United States-International keyboard function to type a number of languages. I find it simple and now use it without thinking.

In Windows 7, go to Control Panel > Region and Language > Change Keyboard and select United States-International. I always see a small rectangular icon with a squiggle on top displayed on my bottom bar, although at some point the icon appeared at the top of my screen for a while. Occasionally my accents stop working (after some update?) and I click that icon and with one more click reset United States-International. It can also be reset through Control Panel, as above. I know I used this function for three years in Vista and I may also have used it in Windows XP.

Pointers:

For an acute accent, press Ctrl Alt ‘ simultaneously, then type vowel = á

In English, to get ‘ , type ‘ and it will be a “dead stroke” (you will see nothing), hit the space bar because you are not putting a letter under it and you will then see the single quote mark. This is a minor adjustment for English and I find it well worth gaining the multiple language function.

Press Ctrl-Alt , (the comma) simultaneously = ç

You can see the ~ and the ` at the top left of the United States physical keyboard. Pressing the key is a dead stroke. Put the appropriate letter under the mark or press the spacebar and you will get only the mark.

This function works for me in all my Microsoft aps as well as online using Gmail, LinkedIn, FaceBook, etc.

Pátzcuaro or Patzcuaro

Musicians in the Making

2011-01-28T12:54:00.001-06:00

Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, aka Plaza Grande, bustled this morning with colorful costumes and a student concert.

Walk to Patzcuaro’s Plaza Grande.

Focaccia

2011-01-17T06:00:00.001-06:00

My first hand-made focaccia bread. The high altitude (7200 ft) was not a problem. A superb, succulent success. Soft on the inside and crunchy on the outside. It looked and smelled so good that I forgot to take a photo before we were well into it. A bonus: it was whole wheat.

Life is Sweet

2011-01-14T10:44:00.002-06:00

Yesterday, in the winter month of January, we bought from a nearby roadside vendor 11 lbs of succulent, ripe juicy tangerines for a cost of US $1.70. The two of us will not have any difficulty in consuming them all. Yes, life is sweet.

Incredible edibles.
Patzcuaro is the place.

A Pátzcuaro Physician: One Year to Go

2010-12-22T21:21:00.005-06:00

Luís Manuel Jxxx Bxxx was born in 1986 in Uruapan. When he was quite young, his family moved to Pátzcuaro, where his father practiced as a traumatology physician. His mother dedicated her professional life to Pátzcuaro’s public library where she is now the Directora. In 1999 Luis Manuel’s father was killed in a car accident, leaving his mother to provide for and to educate two children on a modest salary.

Luís Manuel and his mother, Gloria Bxxx Lxxx

Today Yanira de la Salud Jxxx Bxxx, Luis Manuel’s older sister is a licensed physician, working on a specialization in emergency medicine in Guadalajara. Luís Manuel has completed five years of medical studies at UMSNH (Universidad Michoacana San Nicolás Hidalgo) in Morelia. He also has finished his year of residency at a Morelia hospital where he delivered a number of babies when working in obstetrics.

Unlike IMSS clinics, IMSS Oportunidades clinics
are free; they are for people at the bottom of a
”low income” class.

Before he can take his final comprehensive exams, Luís Manuel must give a year of service in a Michoacán pueblo. He was assigned to Tunguitiro, a town founded in 1530, located near Coeneo. After this service and passing his examinations he will be licensed and may practice as a doctor of medicine. For his year’s service in Tunguitiro, the government provides him a modest stipend to help cover living expenses and, attached to the clinic, a bedroom with a kitchenette and bathroom. He normally spends week-ends at home in Pátzcuaro and the work week in Tunguitiro, about an hour away by car.

The Tunguitiro clinic.

Luís Manuel’s basic accommodations
at the Tunguitiro clinic.

On a typical Monday, Luis Manuel’s mother drives him back to work in Tunguitiro, and on a particular Monday we accompanied them. He works at an IMSS Oportunidades clinic which, he explains, is different from an IMSS clinic. IMSS Oportunidades is for people who have no means to pay anything for health services. If it were not for the IMSS Oportunidades in their pueblo, the nearest clinic for residents of Tunguitiro would be one that is private and unaffordable in Coeneo.

Nurse prepares to vaccinate a little boy.

Ouch. But it was over quickly.

The Tunguitiro clinic is staffed by Luis Manuel and a nurse assistant. The head clinic of IMSS Oportunidades rural clinics is located at Santa Fe de la Laguna; it oversees the free clinics located on Lake Pátzcuaro plus five others. This main clinic is staffed by two licensed physicians, one for administration and the other for consultation. Luís Manuel has constant contact with the consulting physician by radio for any questions or guidance he may need. It is interesting to note that Don Vasco de Quiroga’s most important pueblo-hospital, as part of his vision of Utopia, was located in Santa Fe de la Laguna.

Luís Manuel dispenses free medications
on site.

The IMSS Oportunidades clinic at Tunguitiro provides health care for the residents of four communities: Tunguitiro, Cotiro, Pretoria and Transval. The people of the communities (I believe that all four are ejidos) are involved with the clinic. In return for their free medical attention they take turns working there, doing chores such as cleaning, painting, maintenance and yard work. In addition, the government pays families to meet certain requirements. To earn the allocation, a family’s children have to attend school and go to the clinic for medical exams; parents must attend lectures on health and nutrition; adolescents must attend sex education classes.

A Tungitiro street.

Luís Manuel practices primarily preventive medicine. He oversees vaccinations; he tests and treats for diabetes and hypertension which which are common; he provides prenatal care (his stint in obstetrics in Morelia serves him well in this community); and he refers patients to other venues for emergencies, surgeries and needs beyond the basic care that the Tunguitiro clinic can provide. The nearest IMSS emergency care available is in Paracho or Ario de Rosales, which are hours away. Local people cannot afford alternative, emergency care in private clinics in a closer location.

People queue for health care.

I asked about IMSS in Patzcuaro, which is closer than Paracho or Ario for emergencies. The response: there is no surgeon, the clinic is too busy, and it is understaffed.

Luís Manuel’s father was a physician, his older sister is a physician, and I have no doubt that he will soon be licensed as a physician. He is not only dedicated, but he is also a very personable young man—a felicitous combination for his patients, young and old.

Patzcuaro Portrait Painter

2010-11-27T14:26:00.008-06:00

JOSE DA SILVA

Patzcuaro boasts a consummate portrait painter.

José da Silva was born in 1948 in Boulogne-sur-Mer, Argentina. He married Adriana Mitidiero and they had two children. In 1974 the couple left Argentina to move with their two-year-old daughter and six-month-old son to Mexico D.F. José and Adriana both needed to work and they spent hours commuting in the nightmare of Mexico City traffic. They said they hardly saw their children. The niñera fed breakfast to the children after the couple left for work and put them to bed at night before they returned.

In 1976, CREFAL in Pátzcuaro offered Adriana a position as executive secretary and also offered José a job. The couple picked up again and happily moved to Pátzcuaro--where two more daughters were born and Adriana and José have lived ever since.

In Pátzcuaro José met an Austrian who had been trained as a finish-carpenter. The two men set up a business, first making wooden toys and then furniture. At one point Carrefour in France ordered 2500 sets of shelves, which they shipped in 1997. At its peak, the furniture business employed 80-100 people.

José started painting on plywood at the age of ten in Argentina and had always liked to paint, even though he worked at other jobs for a living. In Pátzcuaro he was further able to study painting technique with a painter from Mexico City. José began painting portraits, which is what most interested him, and he sold them well from the beginning.

At some point José and his partner realized they did not both have to manage the furniture business at the same time. They began trading three months on and three months off, then six months, and eventually one year at a time. They shared the profits which gave them both the luxury of time off with income. Eventually, in 2006, José sold his share in the business to a mutual friend. His children were grown and José could devote himself full time to painting, his first love.

Although he has done a few landscapes, José is first and foremost a portrait painter. He says that the expression on certain faces catches his attention. To begin, he may take as many as one hundred photographs of a subject which he uses in picking the angle and the look he likes best. He especially likes to paint a person’s eye contact. And some people, such as Arminda of Ihuatzio, he paints over and over again to capture a different mood, angle or look.

Those of you who wander around Pátzcuaro have certainly admired the superb da Silva paintings displayed at El Patio or La Surtidora on Plaza Grande. José usually has some portraits for sale and he can ship to a customer. If you are interested in purchasing a painting and would like to know what he has available, make a comment below to request his email address.

Here are some portraits that José da Silva has painted.

Painter José da Silva - Portraits

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Pátzcuaro bound?

Pátzcuaro is Special

2010-11-15T09:04:00.000-06:00

An inveterate traveler posted this on a message board that I happened upon:

Typical architecture in Patzcuaro. All buildings must be painted white with with dark red bases. The lettering must all be of the same style and painted red, black and white. All of the lanterns lining the streets are identical.

To me, Patzcuaro is a VERY SPECIAL, enchanting place. When you enter the city, you can imagine that you’ve gone back 200 years in time. Of course, there are automobiles, electricity, and other modern conveniences, but the basic aura of the city is timeless. It exudes feelings of a simpler time when people spent time together and engaged in ages old occupations ~ farming, fishing, weaving, and hand-crafting items for use in every day life. I’ve NEVER seen any city that has a bulk SEED STORE located on their main plaza. Apparently it’s been there forever and ever, and has been run by the same man for generations. In Patzcuaro, you still see MANY Tarascan people in their traditional clothing out and about.

Patzcuaro is a place we WILL return to ~ hopefully over and over again…

Post by JoanieBlon of maison-t-bayou.com/ to www.zihuatanejo-ixtapa.com.mx/wwwboard/messages/181505.html

A place in Patzcuaro for you.

Drive Pátzcuaro to Nuevo Laredo

2010-11-13T10:41:00.001-06:00

There has been interest expressed in some specifics for the drive from Pátzcuaro to the border at Nuevo Laredo, using the bypass on the West side of Querétaro. Your mileage may vary from mileage given here, depending on the route taken through Morelia.

000.0 mi – Tanganxuan Glorieta in front of Aurrera, Pátzcuaro

Drive through Morelia and take cuota to Salamanca

104.1 mi – At Salamanca, take cuota toward Querétaro
N 20˚35.318” W 101˚08.311” (approx. coordinates)

149.0 mi – Right hand exit to Santa Rosa Jauregui/San Luís Potosí and to Mex #57
N 20˚ 34.248” W 100˚ 29.026”
Follow signs Sta Rosa Jauregui / San Luis Potosi toward Mex #57

165.4 mi – Do NOT exit at Santa Rosa Jauregui

166.4 mi – Follow sign to San Luís Potosí

167.0 mi – Join Mex #57 North

279.0 mi – El Potosino Parador Turístico

Bypass San Luís Potosí

Go into Matehuala (there is an option to bypass)

398.7 mi – Las Palmas Restaurant and Hotel, Matehuala

465.0 mi – San Pedro Parador Turístico
N 24˚ 29.738” W 100˚ 17.693

524.6 mi – Monterrey-Saltillo > Cuota
N 25˚ 10.501” W 100˚ 43.727

546.0 mi – Saltillo bypass, right exit
N 25˚ 26.070” W 100˚ 48.287”

559.5 mi – Take right exit > Saltillo-Monterrey
N 25˚ 35.108” W 100˚ 52.755”

563.2 mi – Exit again right > Morones Prieto (via new cuota)
N 25˚ 36.825” W 100˚ 50.171

581.0 mi – Exit right > Nvo Laredo Cuota Mex #40
N 25˚ 41.786” W 100˚ 34.655”

606.mi – Go left/North > Nvo Laredo Mex #85 via cuota
N 25˚ 50.880” W 100˚ 14.882”

609.5 mi – At this Y stay on cuota

656.0 mi – El Rancho Parador Turístico, hotel and restaurant, Cuota Km 99
N 26˚ 30.119” W 100˚ 00.703

718.4 mi. – Alternate border crossing: Exit to Colombia Bridge (at approx. km 207 of Cuota)

Arriving in Nvo Laredo, follow signs to Zona Centro & Puente I

730.6 mi – At the Y, go left.
N 27˚ 27.087” W 099˚ 31.084”
Follow this curving road around. You will pass a turn-off to left where car permits are processed.

734.0 mi – Nvo Laredo Puente I into the U.S.
N 27˚ 29.873” W 099˚ 30.479”

Noche de Muertos 2010–#11

2010-11-02T11:15:00.006-06:00

Pilgrimage on Horseback

On November 1, 50 riders set out from Morelia on horseback to make a pilgrimage to Pátzcuaro. Every year the pilgrimage keeps gathering riders from pueblos along the way, until they finally number from 600 to 1,000 on arrival at the Plaza de la Basílica. This massive procession on horseback pays homage to Nuestra Señora de la Salud, who is venerated at the Pátzcuaro Basílica.

The ride started in the dark at 5:00 AM and the caballeros and caballeras starting arriving in streams at 5:00 PM at the Plaza. In the fading light, the earthy smell of the horses permeated the air, while the occasional clatter of restless hooves, the snorts of horses pulling at their tethers and their nickers punctuated the burble of satisfied conversations.

This year no horses were permitted to enter the small courtyard area adjacent to the Basílica or the edifice itself because of restored paving and flooring. Mass was held to the jingle of spurs as those who were standing occasionally shifted their weight from foot to foot.

Cabalgata Morelia-Pátzcuaro 2010

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See a series of posts on Night of the Dead in Patzcuaro.
Patzcuaro bound?

Noche de Muertos 2010 – #10

2010-10-31T13:03:00.002-06:00

A Walk through the Tianguis

Here is just a sampling of the folk art and craft ware on display on the the Plaza Grande today.

Patzcuaro Tianguis–Noche de Muertos

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Folk Art & Crafts
Live 2 blocks away

Noche de Muertos–#9

2010-10-29T09:53:00.003-05:00

The Tianguis on Plaza Vasco de Quiroga

Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, aka Plaza Grande, was restored this year. For Semana Santa, the artesan tianguis were moved to the street next to the Basílica. The whole effect was less than charming. I am pleased to see the tianguis are back at Plaza Grande for Noche de Muertos, but with a change. Instead of being up on the raised plaza itself, the tents are being set up in the street. It looks like the only street on the square that is two-way (on the West side, going up Dr. Coss) may be open to traffic. It seems the plaza itself, with its fountains, benches will be left open for people to enjoy.

I like seeing the folk art from all over Michoacán, as well as from Oaxaca, Chiapas, and a few other places, in one place. I plan to buy some nice gifts.

P.S. - The Dr. Coss side of the Plaza now has tents, as well, with a single one-way lane going South. I would not count on getting a car through. We go on foot to and in the Centro under normal circumstances, which is fun, and for busy Semana Santa and Noche de Muertos people who live here don't even take their cars out.

Noche de Muertos in Patzcuaro
Patzcuaro homes

Noche de Muertos 2010 - #8

2010-10-23T10:31:00.002-05:00

The confections have arrived on Plaza Grande. Here is your opportunity to purchase a skull to present to a favorite person. You can even have the person’s name inscribed on the skull’s forehead, as is the custom.

Sweets for Night of the Dead
A place for you in Patzcuaro

Noche de Muertos 2010 - #7

2010-10-15T14:12:00.002-05:00

8˚ Festival Internacional de Cine de Morelia
Pátzcuaro Extension of the Film Festival
Teatro Emperador Caltzontzin on Plaza “Chica”
No charge to attend

Schedule of 14 film showings during this month of October leading up to Noche de Muertos.

Saturday 16 Oct.
6:00 PM – 90 min.
Héroes verdaderos
Carlos Kuri

8:00 PM – 98 min.
Mi nombre es John Lennon
Nowhere Boy
Sam Taylor-Wood

Sunday 17 Oct.
6:00 PM – 91 min.
El pequeño Nicolás
Le petit Nicolas
Laurent Tirard

8:00 PM – 119 min.
Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky
Jan Kounen

Monday 18 Oct
6:00 PM – 106 min.
Revolución

8:30 PM – 109 min.
Tamara Drewe
Stephen Frears

Tuesday 19 Oct.
6:00 PM – 98 min.
Gertrudis
Ernesto Medina

8:00 PM – 99 Min.
Sal y Pimienta
Soul Kitchen
Fatih Akin

Wednesday 20 Oct.
6:00 PM – 118 min.
Los Hermanos Grimm
The Brothers Grimm
Terry Gilliam

8:30 PM – 100 min.
Upperdog
Sara Johnsen
Terry Gilliam

Thursday 21 Oct.
6:00 PM – 123 min.
El mundo imaginario del Dr. Parnassus
The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus
Terry Gilliam

8:30 – 115 min.
Hidalgo
Antonio Serrano

Friday 22 Oct.
6:00 PM – 128 min.
Ágora… La caída del imperio romano
Agora
Alejandro Amenábar

8:30 PM – 78 min.
Norte
Nord
Rune Denstad Langlo

Noche de Muertos - #6

2010-10-14T07:08:00.001-05:00

Altars & Offerings Exhibit
Opening 1 November 2010 at 5:00 PM
Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra
Plaza “Chica”, Pátzcuaro
Traditional pozole and atole will be served.

See the altars and offerings for Night of the Dead that are traditional in the Lake Pátzcuaro region.

This year the library will display altars to pay homage to two heroines of the Mexican Revolution: María Gertrudis Bocanegra de Mendoza de Lazo de la Vega of Pátzcuaro and María Luísa Martínez of Erongarícuaro.

The offerings will be in memory of Dr. Aaron Huipe of Pátzcuaro. This young physician died prematurely this past year; he had received many awards for excellence when he was a medical student.

For more about Altars & Offerings.
Your Pátzcuaro.

Noche de Muertos - #5

2010-10-13T15:31:00.002-05:00

Exhibit and Sale of Ceramic Catrina Figures
Biblioteca Gertudris Bocanegra
Plaza “Chica”, Pátzcuaro
Formal opening of exhibit – 30 October 2010 at 5:00 PM
On display through 3 November 2010.

Catrinas are skeleton figures, dressed in outrageous clothing and costume, with which Mexico mocks death. For further explanation see "Catrinas" and Skeletons: Mocking Death in Mexican Culture.

This exhibit will feature hand-selected Catrina pieces from Capula. There will be something “for every pocket”, as one says in Spanish. Prices will range from approximately Pesos $100 to $500.

More about Night of the Dead around Lake Pátzcuaro.
You could walk to Plaza Chica.

Noche de Muertos 2010 - #4

2010-10-11T09:41:00.004-05:00

Videos - Noche de Muertos in the Lake Pátzcuaro Region

1. An interesting video of Noche de Muertos Traditions on La Pacanda island of Lake Pátzcuaro.

2. A video of the Purhépecha fire ball game - Uarhukua Chanakua

More about Night of the Dead around Lake Pátzcuaro.
Pátzcuaro living.

Noche de Muertos 2010 - #3

2010-10-06T16:00:00.004-05:00

Flor de Ánimas

Flower of Souls
Flor de Ánimas, Yunuén Island
Laelia autumnalis

All over Mexico the ubiquitous zempasúchitl flower(marigold) marks the observance of death. On the Meseta Purhépecha, the high Purhépecha Plateau, in addition to the marigold, a flower less well known is important and traditionally used for celebration of Night of the Dead. This is the delicate purple orchid, endemic to Mexico’s central highlands, called Flor de Ánimas (Flower of Souls). This orchid blooms abundantly in the fall in high oak forests. I have seen these blossoms in profusion on the nearby island of Yunuén on Lake Pátzcuaro.

The Orchidaceae epidendroideae epidendreae laeliinae laelia autumnalis grows in Mexico in the central to southern mountains at elevations of 1500 to 2600 meters. The blooms are fragrant and long-lasting. The bulbs of this orchid is one type of those traditionally used to make a paste mixed with cornstarch to mold figures such as that of the Virgen de la Salud in Pátzcuaro’s Basílica. Some medical research indicates that an extract of this orchid has antihypertensive and vasorelaxant properties; it is also said to cause abortion.

If you are an orquidophile, visit Artesanías La Mojiganga on Patzcuaro’s Plaza Vasco de Quiroga. The owner, Felipe de Ortega, helped me indentify the exact species and scientific name of the Flor de Ánimas. He has many types of orchid plants and items necessary to cultivate orchids.

The myriad orchid plants that Glen has put in the trees in our garden at La Jacaranda are busy pushing out the long, thin shoots that will bear the Flor de Ánimas. And soon we will see vendors offering long stems of these orchid blooms in the streets around the central plazas of Pátzcuaro. These and the street full of flowers that is set up next to the Plaza de la Basílica will herald the individual altars and the decorations in homes that are traditional for Night of the Dead.

Hasta más.

P.S. October 12th - Flor de Ánimas blossoms opened today on two of our plants in the trees at La Jacaranda. What a pleasure.

Links:
Mexican Association of Orchidology http://amo.com.mx/
More about Night of the Dead around Lake Pátzcuaro.
Photos on Flickr of The Flowers.
Why not live in Patzcuaro?

Noche de Muertos 2010 - #2

2010-10-05T13:14:00.002-05:00

Night of the Dead Tour - Pesos $470 per person
November 1st, 7:45 PM
Depart from Plazuela San Francisco, Pátzcuaro
Look for the Animecha Tours sign.

Note: Tickets for commentary in English were immediately sold out. Tickets are available for commentary in Spanish.

Kuperantzcua Tzan Animecha
Encounter with the Souls
Tickets available at the Biblioteca Federal Pública Gertrudis Bocanegra on the Plaza “Chica” in Pátzcuaro
M – F 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM
Sat. 9:30 AM to 1:30 PM
Sun. Closed

If you purchase your tickets at the Biblioteca, a portion of the proceeds will be donated to the library.

Ticket includes:

Transportation
Charanda (sample regional tequila during the tour)
Tócuaro - private performance of the Pastorela/Dance of the Shepherds in the mask-maker town of Tócuaro; display of masks.
Regional Food Buffet with mole, enchiladas, tamales, atole, ponche...
Jarácuaro – Purhépecha festival to welcome the souls with music, dances and more.
Graveside vigil in Arocutín cemetery
Graveside vigil in Cucuchucho cemetery
Bi-lingual English/Spanish tour guide Jaime Hernandez Balderas (sold out – Spanish only available)
Souvenir

Make sure you have warm clothing and comfortable walking shoes.

More about Night of the Dead around Lake Pátzcuaro.
Photos on Flickr of The Flowers.
Photos on Flickr of The Cemeteries.
Why not live in Patzcuaro?

Noche de Muertos 2010 - #1

2010-09-30T07:00:00.004-05:00

More coming soon on Noche de Muertos...watch this site.

Everywhere around Lake Pátzcuaro fields of zempasúchitl, a species of bright orange marigold, are being cultivated for Night of the Dead. Take particular note of the usage "Night" of the Dead. The rest of Mexico observes Day of the Dead and many mexicanos come to Pátzcuaro to observe the unique customs of the Purhépecha pueblos around the lake. In fact, some 95% of Pátzcuaro visitors year-round are mexicanos, which makes for a very traditional ambiance.

Common both to the town of Pátzcuaro and to the pueblos are flowers, decorations and bedizened altars during the week that precedes Noche de Muertos. However, the vigil in the cemetery of Pátzcuaro proper is held during the day, as in the rest of Mexico, while the singular vigil in the lake pueblos is held at night.

More about Night of the Dead around Lake Pátzcuaro.

Photos on Flickr of The Flowers.

Photos on Flickr of The Cemeteries.

Why not live in Patzcuaro?

Palate Pleasing Papaya

2010-09-14T19:53:00.001-05:00

I love plump, palate-pleasing papaya and can eat this fruit in astonishing quantities. I have eaten it most of my life, except for stints in cold so-called temperate climes from which I have fled. In Pátzcuaro I can buy my ripe papaya at the street market by Plaza Chica in every month of the year and I do not have to pay a king’s ransom to end up with a greenish, unripe, tasteless fruit.

Here are some exciting facts to wade through on your way to the anecdotes following. The probable origin of the papaya is Mexico and Central America. Even though it looks like a tree, the papaya plant is classified as a large herb, Herbaceous perennial. It grows worldwide in tropical climates. Papayas are the only natural source of papain, which naturally aids digestion. It breaks down protein and cleanses the digestive track so that less food metabolizes as fat.

Papayas are rich in vitamin C, folate, and potassium, as well as providing fiber, vitamin A, vitamin E, the eye-saving carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin, and lycopene. For nutritional value, papayas rank in the top three fruits. They have 13 times more vitamin C and more than 2 times the potassium of apples; they have 4 times more vitamin E than both apples and oranges. All that and it tastes good, too.

Did you know that papain is the tenderizing ingredient in Adolph’s meat tenderizer? Check the label in a store somewhere sometime. In Tahiti we used to use the papaya leaf to tenderize a tough cut of meat. We would buy “steaks” and wrap each one in a washed papaya leaf. We then placed the packets in the refrigerator overnight and the next day, voilà, we had tender steaks instead of having to attack the slabs with our machetes. If we left the meat in the leaves for a second day, I accidentally found out that it had begun to predigest—rather slimy and not at all appetizing.

On a holiday week-end, when we had more time off from work, we would hike two hours past the end of the road on Tahiti-Iti (the little part of the island’s figure 8) and camp by a river and waterfall. There we would spear fish and grill them on coral heated in a wood fire. Once a hapless feral chicken showed itself and it was hunted down with a fishing spear-gun. It was a tough, wiry bird, before and after its untimely demise. I shinnied up the trunk of a papaya “tree” and picked several green papayas. We peeled and seeded them and cut them up like squash. We simmered the chicken with chopped onions and garlic which we had brought, and the green papaya. The papaya tasted like squash and it tenderized the chicken beautifully. Healthy and tasty over rice.

When my children were infants, to introduce fruit with vitamin A and C into their diet, I would scrape the papaya flesh with a spoon and feed the resulting purée to them. Much less acid than orange juice, babies can have papaya when they are tiny. They digest it well and it is very good for them.

In Patzcuaro I eat papaya almost every morning (I confess that I do like variety from time to time). I am so spoiled. Maybe ripe, voluptuous mangos mañana…

Driving Gringa & Sola

2010-09-01T12:06:00.001-05:00

Practical travel information always seems to be of interest to those contemplating a driving trip. A female friend made the following driving trip by herself in August, Patzcuaro-Tucson-Patzcuaro. With her permission, I publish the following:

Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 7:56:46 PM
Subject: Driving Gringa and Sola

Lest you have been fearful of driving from the central area of Mexico and Tucson, I want everyone to know I just did this trip. I drove from Patzcuaro to Tucson, up what I call the middle road. The route encompasses Morelia, Leon, Aguascalientes, Zacatecas, Torreon/Gomez Palacio, Chihuahua, Nuevas Casas Grandes, Agua Prieta and on to Tucson via Bisbee and Tombstone. The pavement is fine along the way with minor blemishes in the blacktop between Nuevas Casas Grandes and the border. The scenery is gorgeous, and the tolls are reasonable (more so than other routes north).
Going north, the biggest delay was at a Mexican military stop, 10 minutes south of Agua Prieta. We waited nearly an hour, amongst lots of semi trucks with no car lane. That was okay as far as I was concerned because I am a birder and it was nice to have time to watch bird activity as we inched along the road. The
gendarmes were most polite and waved me on with "have a safe trip". I also handed them a package of shortbread cookies that I had on hand. In case you are
wondering, they were not concerned about my living in Michoacan, the supposed home of La Familia.
Coming back, the biggest hassle I experienced was on the US side of Agua Prieta. The US Border Patrol combed through my car, asked me if I was carrying arms or $10,000 or more in USD, and why I had Texas plates if I lived in Patzcuaro. Again, I was okay with this process, because, after all, someone is providing the narcos with arms and I didn't want to be treated any differently than anyone else driving this route.

I was stopped at both Aduana's (Mexican Customs). One stop was at the border; the other was near the confluence of traffic from Cuidad Juarez and Agua Prieta. My vehicle was pretty full with condiments I cannot buy here, a power washer for cleaning tiles on my steps, a new laptop for a friend, a case of hummingbird feeders for the Patzcuaro Birding Club, and 30 pairs of binoculars for the Audubon Society located in San Miguel. After minor questions at the first stop, I was passed on with friendly wishes for a safe trip. At the second Aduana, I had to produce my permiso for the car, which is in my husband's name. They asked
me to pull over for further questioning by a higher official. Rather than have everything in my car examined, I told them that I was transporting 30 binoculars for educational purposes by SMA Audubon. I had three letters attesting to this. One officer read the letter from the Mexican Dept of Ecology out loud while the other opened a box of binoculars and looked through them. They promptly allowed me to pass on, didn't want these documents, and bid me a safe journey.
Mind you, my Spanish is fair to middling so my easy passage wasn't due to fluency.
I am not saying that everyone's experience will be like mine; however, I have never had problems with my trips to Tucson or McAllen. All Mexican officials have been polite and professional.
Courtesy of ”G.C. on Lake Patzcuaro, Michoacan”

Pineapple Pottery

2010-08-24T06:00:00.000-05:00

Lisa Orr, MFA and potter, has a passion for the pottery of Mexico. When she could not find any videos or films to share her love and knowledge of the craft and art, she decided to produce her own with the aid of a cinematographer. Her first documentary was Pottery of Mexico Vol 1: Pineapples of Patamban and San José de Gracia (Michoacán). Lisa sent me this video and with the collaboration and kindness of Eric and Vicky of Patzcuaro’s charming Posada Yolihuani, last week we were able to show the documentary to a number of interested people. It is well done and informative. One sees the renowned piña pottery with new appreciation.

Lisa will soon release a documentary on Mexico’s Árboles de Vida (Trees of Life). The third documentary in the series will feature the pottery of Ocumicho, Michoacán, and show the influence of master potter Marcelino Vicente. Some of maestro Vicente’s pieces are in the collection of the Museo Regional de Artesanías de Pátzcuaro. It is a pleasure to see the tribute that Lisa’s documentaries pay to Michoacán artisans.

I was put in contact with Lisa Orr by friend and fellow writer Philip Russell, an historian of Mexico. We expect both Lisa and Philip to visit us in Pátzcuaro within a few months, on a trip relative to the Ocumicho film.

Some links:
www.lisaorr.com – Lisa Orr, MFA, Potter
www.potteryofmexico.com – Buy Documentary DVD
The History of Mexico by Philip Russell (2010)
Posada Yolihuani, Pátzcuaro
Folk Art & Crafts – MyPatzcuaro blog

Un Taco de Ojos

2010-08-21T17:13:00.006-05:00

When this young man was introduced to a Pátzcuaro dama she exclaimed, "¡Es un taco de ojos!" (a taco for the eyes). I love this Mexican expression for good-looking, a hunk... Mexicanos wax poetic about their favorite kinds of tacos and taquitos so the metaphor is a supreme and piquant compliment.

The Face of Patzcuaro

2010-08-19T20:38:00.004-05:00

People: the face of Patzcuaro and surrounding areas.

Mistongo, Fiesta and Frida

2010-08-16T19:04:00.011-05:00

The Pátzcuaro Friends of the Biblioteca Federal Pública Gertrudis Bocanegra recently held their annual fundraising event. The venue was again Restaurante Mistongo with the collaboration of Susi Santiago. Susi's varied and tasty botanas were much appreciated, especially the pizza freshly made by her nephew. All profits from ticket sales, $100 pesos each, and the silent auction will benefit the library.

Hospitable and smiling Susi from Argentina, owner of the Mistongo Restaurant.

Eating and dancing while doing good works...

Among many very nice items donated for the fund raiser was a luxurious, boxed art book entitled Frida de Frida. The evening's silent auction concluded with an overt bidding war over the book. This final mêlée was not so silent, quite humorous and very profitable.

Thanks to the Amigos de la Biblioteca, to Susi Santiago of the Mistongo, and to all who participated for making this event such a success. If you weren't there you missed an enjoyable evening for a good cause.

Links:

Restaurante Mistongo

Happenings at the Biblioteca

Check out Patzcuaro

Me in My Fig Leaf

2010-08-14T13:51:00.007-05:00

Aha. Got your attention in a devious way.

We planted a little stick of a thing at La Jacaranda and it has flourished into a lush fig tree. This year, after practicing for a few seasons, the tree is laden with fruit. The figs ripen into a deep wine color and taste delicious. I love birds, but right now I wish my blankety-blank little feathered friends would stop beating us to the ripe figs.

You, too, can wear a fig leaf in Patzcuaro.

By Bus to Mexico City

2010-07-14T14:00:00.005-05:00

About two months ago, to visit some friends, mi prima from France (by the way, happy Bastille day) traveled from Patzcuaro to Mexico City and back by bus. She found the trip easy, convenient and comfortable.

Michael Warshauer, a local resident, recently gave detailed information on bus travel to the big D.F. in the useful, member-friendly michoacan_net Yahoo Group forum. He has kindly permitted me to republish it here:

Several times a year, we travel by bus from Pátzcuaro to Mexico City, and return. Since my last posts on this a few years ago, there have been changes in both schedules and the buses themselves. Here is what I've learned, with some of my personal opinions on service quality, principally on Grupo Herradura de Plata's AutoVias line. Some references will be made to ETN, but we use it less, as it no longer stops in Pátzcuaro. This will describe what I consider the easest way to do this, with one alternative option.
First of all, our travel always is from La Central de Camioneras in Pátzcuaro (with one exception) to Terminal Poniente (Observatorio) in Mexico City. We have never used the Terminal Norte in Mexico City on these trips, as it's not convenient for us. Someday, it may be useful, but for now, we always go to Poniente/Observatorio. If you are a savvy Mexico traveler, and travel with very little luggage, say, a small pack, you can save taxi fare by emerging from the Terminal Observatorio, crossing the busy avenue (there is a light), wend through a tianguis, and enter the Metro at Estacíon Observatorio. That is the western end of Linea 1, a major Metro line in the city. It's easy to find a seat at that station. Linea 1 can take you in 15 or so minutes to Metro Insurgentes, a major street hub, where you can walk to La Zona Rosa or Colonia Roma Norte; or continue to points beyond, including the Airport. But that's out of the discussion at hand, and it's not simple.
The bus trip has become easier in the past couple of years after the opening of the Toluca bypass via the outskirts of Lerma, Estado de México. The entire trip is just under 5 hours, with a 15 minute stop at the Central de Camioneras in Morelia to take on and discharge passengers. (Sometimes there are only us or 1 more passenger on the 45 minute Pátzcuaro-Morelia run.)

In the last year, HdP-Autovias has trimmed its Pátzcuaro schedule to have less frequent departures. I have posted recent schedules to the Files Section under Travel and Leisure. Or, you can look here, http://www.hdp.com.mx/ Enter the required info to see the most recent changes, if any. Although you can order online, we never do, as it's so easy to just get the tickets a day or so in advance going out, and on the same day with an hour or so in anticipation coming back. The only time it might be worth booking online is for travel during heavy holiday seasons, or if you qualify for an INAPAM (INSEN) discount (50% !) and want to be sure to get one of the allocated discounted seats.)
On our return, Mexico City-Pátzcuaro, we arrived early to avoid rush hour traffic and were able to easily get two INAPAM discounted seats on the 7:20 departure. The AutoVias buses are modern and comfortable. On the this route, we have so far taken mostly double decker buses. There are two classes, Servicio Plus and the slightly more expensive (at present the difference is $19 pesos Mexicanos), Servicio Ejecutivo. We took Ejecutivo recently, and for us, there is absolutely no advantage to it, unless you don't want to climb a short flight of stairs or want to be closer to the restroom. The limited seating Ejecutivo section is lower ceilinged, has leg rests (which for me were useless), fewer windows and is generally darker and more confining. Downstairs, in Ejecutivo, there's no overhead shelf space for carryons, but there is limited yet adequate space in the upper, Servicio Plus deck. Note: there is some lateral sway motion noted on the upper deck. Personally, I'll take that over the poorly ventilated confining lower deck.
In the past, we would be given an unappetizing lunchmeat and yellow cheese sandwich and a bottle of water or a can of Boing! If offered the Boing!, take it. It's a delicious, non-carbonated fruit drink. On our last trip, a 7:15 a.m. departure from Pátzcuaro, there was no sandwich nor water. We'd brought our own, much better, homemade tortas, Boing! and water. I think passengers boarding at Morelia got a snack and a drink.
The newer AutoVias buses have Internet aboard. It works slowly, but it usually works, if you are not in the station area. I was able to check email and browse a few websites on my iPod Touch. The upper deck Servicio Plus is airier, better ventilated (at least, in our experience) and the views are much better. If you want in your face, over the road thrills, book one of the front row seats which have a panoramic window looking forward. These seats also have the most leg room. The line has been thoughtful enough to provide roll down shades against sun glare.Most of the onboard movies are now in Spanish. This is useful for learning or improving your Spanish. A few movies are actually good. Most are either totally sappy or violent American B-movies.The free coffee dispenser was no longer present in the AutoVias Observatorio waiting room. It won't be missed.
There is actually pretty decent food to be had at the concession counters and in the cafeteria style restaurant in the Terminal Observatorio. I would avoid the carnitas places, though, on the dried out, unappetizing appearance of the product. There's an interesting and quirky bakery or two within Terminal Observatorio. One of the specialties are large turtle shaped breads. They are intriguing to see but the taste is nothing special.There's a bookstore, with, I believe espresso drinks! I haven't tried them.
Now, ETN. ETN, Enlaces Terrestres Nacionales lines serve Mexico City and Morelia, as well as major points west in central Mexico. It has a reputation of being the most comfortable bus service, akin to traveling first class air. Well, it *is* comfortable, but to me no better than the upper deck seats on AutoVias. [Per author and Cristina Potters of "Mexico Cooks!", an advantage is that seating is configured 1 and 2. Thus a solo traveler can choose to sit by themself if they want. That is only possible on AutoVias if the seat next to you is unsold.]
Since ETN no longer serves Pátzcuaro, you have to get to the Morelia Central Bus Terminal by secondary means. One way is an AutoVias bus! If you can coordinate the timing; or take the very frequent (every 15 minutes or so) second class Purhépechas bus departures, either from the Pátzcuaro Central or down at the "Estacíon", across from the ill fated Federal Police Station. You are not guaranteed a seat if you board there.It can be a drag if traveling with a lot of luggage, so sometimes it's best to make your travel simple, and just take the AutoVias all the way. Just less hassle.
Buen viaje,
Mike

See Mike’s tips on bus travel from Mexico City Airport and his blog Surviving La Vida Buena.
HdP-Autovias site.
Join Michoacan_net Yahoo Groups for useful information and e-camaraderie.

El Potro

2010-06-19T01:12:00.003-05:00

I always enjoy listening to El Potro de Pátzcuaro, Gregorio Rodríguez, while sitting at La Surtidora with my cafecito. He said he is available for parties and special occasions, and with my cousins we purchased his CD. You can contact him at elpotro1_1 [insert at sign] hotmail dot com.

My Luxuriant Jacaranda

2010-05-14T09:00:00.001-05:00

The eponymous jacaranda tree at Villa La Jacaranda is laden with lavender-colored blossoms, and rains its petals in the front yard. I have never seen it so luxuriant. Soon, I hope, the jacarandita in back will also grace us with a plethora of blooms.

Villa La Jacaranda, Patzcuaro

Exhibit of Embroidery Work

2010-05-13T09:52:00.002-05:00

Teófila Servín of Santa Cruz

On Wednesday, May 19 there will be an exhibit and contest of the well-known embroidery work of Santa Cruz. Prizes are awarded at 2:00 PM and then the items entered in the contest can be purchased. I am told that things sell quickly and the exhibit is not open long after the awards. It is suggested that one get there early, by 1:30. From Patzcuaro, take the road to Tzintzuntzan. At Sanabria turn right to Santa Cruz. The exhibit should be near or at the church. If you have questions, go to the Santa Cruz embroidery shop that is just a few doors South from the Plaza Grande on Dr. Coss, on the left hand side.

Patzcuaro is great.

Wifi at the Biblioteca

2010-05-12T18:13:00.004-05:00

Sitting in the Biblioteca Federal Pública Gertrudis Bocanegra, I am using my laptop to post this with the library's wifi connection. Many will be happy to know that the Patzcuaro public library now offers this convenience(free).

Paean to Mexico Living

2010-05-07T09:45:00.006-05:00

As a corollary to Andres Oppenheimer's recent article "Mexico's Big Hope: Get 5 Million U.S. Retirees" in the Miami Herald, Chris B. recently posted the following commentary in a Yahoo group. Quoted with Chris's permission:
Mexican banks are already making it easier to deposit your pension or social security checks.

I think many more Americans will look for refuge in Mexico as health care will not be resolved anytime soon.
I am currently in San Antonio, Tx and am shocked at prices in the supermarket, apartment rentals, and the cost of utilities. If I were a retiree it would drive me to move to Mexico.

I can't seem to spend more than 700 dollars a month for expenses including; three vehicle insurance policies (two cars and one rv), cable, electric, gas, internet, telephone, gym, exterminator, club campestre dues, and private healthcare insurance. This doesn't include gasoline or groceries. My house is paid for but I couldn't survive in the U.S. with this budget.

Most of my friends in the U.S. are retirees who didn't plan well for their retirement. They barely scrape by month to month. Utilities and healthcare are eating them alive.

Imagine all the foreigners who live fulltime in Mexico. If there are 1.5 million Americans, what about Canadians and Europeans?

Apart from lower living expenses you can't beat the variety of foods, fresh produce, sunshine, culture and language.

chris b.
monterrey, nuevo leon

"Mexico's Big Hope: Get 5 Million U.S. Retirees"
Chris B's Blog
Stretch your dollars in Patzcuaro

Got Electricity

2010-05-06T20:58:00.004-05:00

This caught my eye.

Hugo Valencia, Birder

2010-05-01T11:23:00.004-05:00

Hugo with one of his two daughters

Hugo Valencia has diverse talents, from small appliance repair to master tile-setter to keen-eyed birder. He has received a scholarship to train at the well-known Long Point Bird Observatory in Ontario, Canada. That's a long way from Lake Patzcuaro. He is one of only three people chosen from Latin America. See story.

Lamb Barbacoa

2010-04-26T08:00:00.000-05:00

It must seem like we spent all of our time eating. Well, almost all. Good friends in Pátzcuaro invited us for a mouth-watering lamb barbacoa, accompanied by a variety of botanas and many other sides dishes. What a feast we had.

Bonjour à la famille en France. L'agneau doit vous faire penser au méchoui de Tunisie.

Patzcuaro is the place.

Uruapan

2010-04-25T19:36:00.009-05:00

With our cousins, when we went to Paricutín, we started the day with the Sunday brunch of traditional Michoacán foods at the lovely Mansión del Cupatitzio, next to Parque Nacional Barrancas del Cupatitzio. The sun was out, illuminating the lovely flowered garden and we sat outside, as we always do.

After we were replete with wonderfully ripe fruit, exotic juices, and a variety of specialty dishes which included what I have dubbed Corn Truffles (huitlacoche), we walked through the park which is like a tropical forest, where we enjoyed the sound of the clear, running, spring-fed water.

Waters of Cupatitzio
Restaurant La Mansión del Cupatitzio
Play in Patzcuaro