I adore “salty” empanadas as an appetizer or as a meal with a salad. A family business has been selling empanadas for over 50 years in Pátzcuaro and they are available on Plaza Chica. An hermano or hermana takes his/her turn staffing the stall under the portal at the Southwest corner of Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra. You can best find someone there after 5:00 PM, as well as what seems random other times. Usually only sweet empanadas are available in the display case for walk-up customers. However, with a minimum of two days notice, I order from Carlos Melgoza Nieto for pick-up some empanadas made with meat and some with rajas of chile poblano. Once I ordered 120 — not all for me you will be happy to know; we had guests.
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Restaurante Cenaduría Lupita II, Morelia
We had not visited this buffet of regional foods in quite a while. From the choice of aguas that came with the meal, we ordered a pitcher of guava-ade. It was delicious. I enjoyed picking and choosing from a variety of dishes. At Pesos $130 per person, it seems a little pricey (I must be spoiled) unless one can eat a lot. The restaurant is located on Camelinas.
Cenaduria Lupita II
Periférico Nueva España
Av. Camelinas 3100
58270 Morelia, Michoacán, Mexico
01 443 314 2848
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Patzcuaro’s Muffin Lady
More about food. Yes, we like to eat. For years we have enjoyed smiling Maria Elena’s home-baked muffins, quick-breads, cookies and little payes de queso. Most of what she offers is made with whole wheat and very little sugar. The muffins with hot coffee make a delicious breakfast variation; a pay de queso is an indulgent taste treat.
You can usually find her from about 5:30 or 6:00 pm until about 9:00 pm from Sunday through Friday. Go to the Northwest corner of Iturbe where it T’s at Plaza Vasco de Quiroga (Plaza Grande), right across the street from Mansión Iturbe.
Buén provecho.
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
My Lush Floripondio
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Night of the Dead
In the Lake Pátzcuaro region, Noche de Muertos / Night of the Dead is observed on the night from November 1 to 2. The ritual is steeped in the beliefs and traditions of the indigenous Purhépecha. Most of Mexico observes Day of the Dead. A visit at night to the cemeteries of the pueblos around the lake is a poignant experience of sight, sound and scent.
Night of the Dead slideshow on Flickr.
About Night of the Dead.
A quiet villa in Pátzcuaro.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Around the Plazas
“Trick or Treat” from El Norte has trickled south to Pátzcuaro. Only in the last couple of years did one see children around the plazas asking for moneditas (small coins) for their calabacitas (little pumpkins, plastic or real). The adopted custom has morphed into something more local. There is no trick, just treat. And the children get far more mileage from the activity than in El Norte. They run around the plazas with their calabacitas for days—and nights—on end.
Someone whom many of you know, so I will not give a name, has a quirky sense of humor. I saw three children come up to him. He smiled broadly, dipped his hand in a calabacita and fished out a few coins. “Gracias,” he said, pocketing the coins, to the children’s speechless shock. When they found their tongues, they finally chorused “No, no….”. He laughed and returned the moneditas.
Another favorite activity of ours is eating. Today we breakfasted at Café Gourmet San Diego on Calle Ramos, between Plaza Chica and Farmacia Guadalajara. They serve as early as 8:30 AM and I have yet to see a foreigner present.
They have several fixed menus, starting at Pesos $35. My breakfast was fresh-squeezed orange juice, huevos a la mexicana, refried beans, and a basket of bread including rolls with whole wheat that were, I am sure, from Rivepan. The café is Nescafé. We modified our order and I asked for hot milk with my coffee. To my pleasure, I received a cup with frothy steamed milk to which I added Nescafé. When we left Pesos $10 was added for each of us for our special coffee order, which was fine (in my experience, a charge is added for any modification to the fixed menu). I am an aficionada of good, dark roast coffee, which I make with an espresso machine but I go to Café San Diego for the breakfast, having already had my first cup of coffee at home. A good almuerzo for a total of Pesos $45 per person.
Monday, October 31, 2011
Altars and Offerings
Altars and offerings for Noche de Muertos / Night of the Dead have been set up in many in public and private places, an integral part of the rituals that precede November 1st and 2nd in the Lake Pátzcuaro region.
More about Altars & Offerings.
Sunday, October 30, 2011
Las Flores –The Flowers
The flowers (zempasúcitl / marigolds) and their fragrance fill Calle Serrato next to the Basílica. Don’t miss a stroll along this street where people go to buy flowers for Night of the Dead / Noche de Muertos. The flowers will be used for decorations, altars and at the cemeteries.
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Folk Art on the Plaza Grande
The tianguis were up yesterday on Plaza Vasco de Quiroga and during the night wares streamed in with the artesans and vendors. The plaza should be in full swing today presaging observance of Noche de Muertos/Night of the Dead.
The two biggest celebrations in Pátzcuaro are Semana Santa and Noche de Muertos. It is an indulgence to peruse and enjoy arts and crafts from all over Michoacán—and beyond—gathered in one place.
Typical Tianguis on Plaza Grande
See Callejón del Sol, just two blocks from Plaza Grande.
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Harbingers of Noche de Muertos
Night of the Dead will soon be here. The earliest harbingers are the confections, los dulces, which have just appeared on Plaza Vasco de Quiroga.
We sit under the portal. Sugar and chocolate skulls fix on us with vacuous eyes from their display tables. Deep in their conversations, local warlocks congregate thickly at tables of six and eight, elbow to elbow with the sweet and bedecked skeletons and bones. Few women are here this evening at 7:00 PM.
Sweets for the Night of the Dead
Near Plaza Vasco de Quiroga


