El Higuero
The little stick we stuck in the ground has grown into a large, beautiful and very productive fig tree. Small green nubs grow into a profusion of fruit. Our mouths begin to water as we watch for it to ripen. The figs seductively plump out and then turn a deep purple color. We palpate their curves gently with our fingers. The trick is to beat the ever vigilant birds. We race to see who gets the ripe ones first. It is a let-down to go to that fat fig of yesterday that was almost ready and find that today, just as we thought, it is perfect—and now full of holes. The early bird gets the fig?
Glen came up with a good idea. He searched on the internet for a recipe to make preserves from green (unripe) figs and yesterday made five pounds of these into preserves. Very tasty! And there is still an abundance of fruit on the tree for which we will compete as the figs ripen.
When I am out patzcuareando, street scenes like this remind me that Patzcuaro still offers a look at traditional Mexico in a small and very livable colonial pueblo. Horses are a daily and important part of local culture.
Carnitas. Tacos of carnitas. Delicious and prized. People stand in long lines to buy their carnitas. I always go to this puesto in the main market building. It is located in the aisle that runs along the north wall of the market and it faces the Carnicería Norteña. The fresh, steaming, hot carnitas arrive at 11:00 am, earlier than most places, and I have never waited in line. I was her first customer on this morning and I purchased carnitas for a comida with friends at our house.
I like to procure fresh chicken from Pollería Gaby. The Pollería is located in the second aisle from the north that runs east-west in the large, main market building. One can buy a chicken whole or have it cut up to suit you. One can also purchase breasts, breast filets, thighs, drumsticks, etc.
We like to keep the fat in our diet low. I select a chicken and have it cut up with all the skin and fat removed. They are fast! We have degusted delectable dishes that range from a Red Thai Chicken Curry to a Chicken Pozole with the pollo from Gaby.
If you are looking for meat, try Carnicería La Norteña on the north wall of the main market building. They have a variety of fresh meats and are eager to help.
On my way to the market building I cut through all the roofed wooden stalls on the west side of Plaza Chica. I could see from this mannequin that I am just not in vogue. Maybe I need a new look.
Mmm…maybe not.
Easter, Holy Week, in Pátzcuaro is the time of greatest religious significance in the pueblo, with days of great solemnity followed by joy and jubilance and the burning of Judas.
Semana Santa also brings one of the two big craft fairs of the year (the other is for Noche de Muertos/NIght of the Dead) to Plaza Grande. Visitors come from all over Mexico as well as from countries around the world to see the renowned folk art from the pueblos of Michoacán. A few artisans also come from other regions.
See more about Semana Santa.
Spring in Pátzcuaro is not to be missed. The children’s parade every year is a delight and will be coming soon.
Slideshow: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tracyzeye/sets/72157615206385999/show/
I adore “salty” empanadas as an appetizer or as a meal with a salad. A family business has been selling empanadas for over 50 years in Pátzcuaro and they are available on Plaza Chica. An hermano or hermana takes his/her turn staffing the stall under the portal at the Southwest corner of Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra. You can best find someone there after 5:00 PM, as well as what seems random other times. Usually only sweet empanadas are available in the display case for walk-up customers. However, with a minimum of two days notice, I order from Carlos Melgoza Nieto for pick-up some empanadas made with meat and some with rajas of chile poblano. Once I ordered 120 — not all for me you will be happy to know; we had guests.
We had not visited this buffet of regional foods in quite a while. From the choice of aguas that came with the meal, we ordered a pitcher of guava-ade. It was delicious. I enjoyed picking and choosing from a variety of dishes. At Pesos $130 per person, it seems a little pricey (I must be spoiled) unless one can eat a lot. The restaurant is located on Camelinas.
Cenaduria Lupita II
Periférico Nueva España
Av. Camelinas 3100
58270 Morelia, Michoacán, Mexico
01 443 314 2848
