Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Thursday, November 13, 2008
The Origin of Lake Patzcuaro and the Egret
See http://birdpatzcuaro.blogspot.com/2008/11/legend-of-egret.html
Monday, November 3, 2008
Yunuen - An Island of Lake Patzcuaro
The cabins beckon.
We leave Pátzcuaro by car through Tzurumútaro, by-passing Cucuchucho. I love this Purhépecha name meaning place of flowers--the syllables drop out of my mouth like ping-pong balls. Now get ready for oral gymnastics. Just beyond Yucazanáztacua (you will be relieved at "Yucas" for short), we turn lakeward at the Pacanda muelle.
Don Chava is our greeter lakeside, and Ivan, son of Alfredo and Alicia, motor-canoes us over. We meet four generations of Alfredo's family, from his father down to his grandchildren. Many Yunuen dwellers have left the island to find work and the remaining population is small. There are five families left, for a total of some forty-five residents.
Alfredo walks us through trees and wild orchids to a high point where five cabins have been built. They stand silent, clean and empty, begging for visitors. They have small bedrooms and neat kitchens, and overlook the placid lake.
We wait for Alfredo to have his usual evening meal consisting primarily of fried fish, hand-made tortillas and fierce chile perón salsa. Alicia is embarrassed and offers us food, but we smile and only accept one tortilla. The family did not know we were coming, and anything we eat will be taken from someone's mouth. Alfredo's father and the families of their sons and daughter, which include spouses and children, gather with Alfredo and Alicia for meals. It looks to us like there is one fish per family member in the pile.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Patzcuaro: Four-Wheeler for Sale
Specs: Yamaha YFM250 2005. It cost Pesos $51,500.00 new and has been gently and seldomly used to run errands around the Centro. Price Pesos $35,000, or make offer.
Friday, October 24, 2008
My Patzcuaro Dream Ladder
The botanas were delicious, the company good and the music moved the participants to dance.
A plethora of fine raffle prizes were donated. Our guests each won a prize and so did we.
We were lucky enough to share in our guests' seven dozen home-baked, rich cookies from the good kitchen of Donna C., the Cookie Chef. They were so tempting that we got into them before it occurred to me to photograph the lovely presentation. Too late.
The Dream Ladder has history. It is an actual ladder used on a local construction site and Pátzcuaro painter Jean A. enriched it with symbols and artistic motifs. It now adorns on our wall at La Jacaranda. I can clamber up it to a higher plane for sweet dreams.
Monday, October 13, 2008
Dia de la Raza
Something is always happening around the trio of plazas in the centro of Patzcuaro. Yesterday around 6:00 pm there was a parade of balloon-festooned vehicles--which must have included every taxi in town. Lots of horns and people having fun. Of course, it made it impossible to drive into the Centro. We intended to go in by car, rather than walk, for the Gala of the Friends of the Library, because we would be returning home "late" (by our and Patzcuaro norms)--after 8:00 pm. So we took a detour, and parked far enough away from our destination that we should have walked in the first place.
A good time was had by all.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Creepy Crawly
Friday, October 10, 2008
Chicken Foot Soup: Caldo de Pies
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Title Insurance in Patzcuaro
The first step was to find a local lawyer/Notario in Pátzcuaro who would be willing to make application to First American Title for approval to do title searches for them in Michoacán; at that time no one in the state had such approval. Arquitecto Luís Stamatio López, a friend with whom we do business in Pátzcuaro, helped me explore local prospects. Although the first few inquiries did not elicit a positive response, Licenciado Ignacio Sandoval Hernández of the Notaría Pública No. 90 in Pátzcuaro indicated his interest and willingness to go through the process. He became the first—and to my knowledge the only—Notario in Michoacán who is approved to do title searches for First American Title.
Being a pragmatic person, I like to see theory applied. My husband and I had purchased and closed on some contiguous properties in the historic center of Pátzcuaro. To test our system, we applied and paid for a single title insurance policy covering the parcels purchased. Lic. Sandoval issued his title opinion in the format required by First American Title, who requested a few documents. Arq. Stamatio and Lic. Sandoval assisted us to obtain these and in 2007 we received the first Title Insurance Policy from First American Title issued for a property in this area. It is in English and payable in U.S. dollars in the United States (Spanish, Pesos and Mexico, respectively, are options). This trial run was not difficult, but it was time-consuming for me to follow up on details to obtain this first policy.
Thursday, August 7, 2008
The Juan O'Gorman Mural
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Rain Concert
Ismael García Marcelino, Purhépecha Poet
Born in Ihuatzio, Michoacán, 1964
Professor for UNAM through the Universidad Michoacana
KÚSKAKUA
Tata janikua
nojaiapanentasintisési
jási kúskakueni ka
xánku ia,
ménku ísi aunatani
kústatarasiinti charani ka pirirastani.
Antatseransinti diósi meiamukua íntspentani.
Jiánkani tarheta ka
anatapuecha pasak’usinti.
CONCERT
For the rain it is not enough
To play good music and no more.
It shakes the sky with lightning and thunder.
It bows down to the fields
To give thanks.
The maize fields and trees applaud.
CONCIERTO
La lluvia no se conforma
con ser buena música y nomás,
hace cimbrar el cielo con rayos y con truenos.
Baja hasta el campo
para dar las gracias.
Las milpas y los árboles aplauden.
5 August 2008, La Jornada, Carlos Montemayor
Spanish to English translation - Tracy Novinger
Click on link: Live in Patzcuaro
Friday, July 25, 2008
Arty Michoacán
Gente, Pátzcuaro has been discovered by the New York Times.
The bulk of the New York Times Article is as follows:
Move Over Oaxaca, Arty Michoacán Is Calling
Published: July 20, 2008
By the time I left the museum’s overpriced gift shop, I had it all mapped out: a crafts safari though the region, foraging for the fanciful animal masks and brightly painted mermaid figurines that caught my eye.
There was one little snag: Michoacán is not only one of
But in December 2006, just days after President Felipe Calderón was sworn into office, the government launched Operation Michoacán, sending convoys of troops to bulldoze marijuana fields and chase out gangsters and drug dealers. Drug-related violence has fallen in the last year and despite occasional flare-ups — which have been confined to gang-on-gang violence and government crackdowns — Michoacán is beginning to attract visitors besides backpackers and serious collectors.
A new highway, 37, through Michoacán has also helped, enabling travelers from beach towns like Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo to zip up to the charming colonial center of Michoacán in less than three hours. It used to take as much as eight.
A few months after Operation Michoacán was put into action, my husband, Carsten, and I drove west from Mexico City into Michoacán without incident. The only ambush was the orange-and-black clouds of monarch butterflies, fluttering above our windshield. (In March, the butterflies migrate north across Michoacán’s rolling green hills to lay eggs on the milkweed plants of the United States.) And the only indication of a lingering drug problem was a few soldiers patrolling the highway.
But what is a safari without a little adventure? The region has a reputation for a rebellious citizenry, as well as its wildly natural beauty.
The original inhabitants, the Purépecha Indians, were thought to have developed one of the most advanced pre-Columbian societies in western Mexico. Their achievements included unique T-shaped pyramids and tapestries made from hummingbird feathers. While they succeeded in fending off numerous invaders, including the mighty Aztecs, they were eventually conquered (and almost wiped out) by Spanish rifles and the famously brutal Nuño de Guzmán in the 16th century.
An ideal place to be based is Pátzcuaro, a colonial town set above a large blue lake in central Michoacán. Unlike the endless sprawl that surrounds most Mexican cities, the streets leading to Pátzcuaro are hedged by pine trees and old adobes.
While its colonial architecture hasn’t changed much since the 16th century, its residents have. In the last decade, American retirees have swooped into town and turned its historic center into a booming expat community.
Michoacán is “an undiscovered Oaxaca,” said Victoria Ryan, a 62-year-old artist who arrived from New Mexico in 1992 and now runs an upscale B & B named Casa Encantada with her partner, Cynthia de la Rosa. “I felt like I arrived in Sante Fe in the 1940s.”
Down the street from Casa Encantada is Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga, a small grassy park with towering ash trees and a stone arcade filled with craft shops and cafes. The square was named after a 16th-century bishop, Vasco de Quiroga, who might be called the patron saint of Michoacán crafts-making
Photo taken in Santa Clara del Cobre. (T. Novinger)
A student of Sir Thomas More’s “Utopia,” Quiroga gathered the ravaged Purépecha Indians into several villages around Lake Pátzcuaro, and encouraged each to adopt a specific craft as a means to survival and self-governance. His utopian vision lives on 400 years later: the village of Santa Clara del Cobre is renowned for its copper products, Capula for its rust-colored pottery and Ihuatzio for its woven baskets and mats.
On the cool evening we arrived in Pátzcuaro, the quiet streets were lined with rickety food carts and whitewashed adobes with red tile roofs and matching base trim. It felt like we were walking through a sepia-toned photograph.
The house itself was a work of art: the front stoop was a mosaic of cow knuckle bones, and a claw-foot bathtub was surrounded by boulders and ferns. Oversized Day of the Dead-themed paintings, a series he was doing for the Universal Culture Forum in Monterrey, were piled up in his airy studio.
Next, we made our way to the ceramic workshop, where Mr. Torres and his wife, Belia Canals Henríquez, produce and sell their colorful Catrinas, which depict elegantly dressed women as skeletons. For about $100, I couldn’t resist taking a foot-tall Catrina home, carefully wrapped in newspaper like a mummy.
Later that afternoon, Mr. Quigley informed me that my coveted green ceramic pineapples, the inspiration of my trip, were made in San José de Gracia, a small village about two hours north of Pátzcuaro. It would have required a half a day and, unfortunately, we didn’t have time; I had plans to continue to the coast.
So the following day, we drove instead to Santa Clara de Cobre, the copper-making village, about 30 minutes to the south. The atelier-lined streets of this quaint town flashed with glittering copper pans, decorative sinks and enormous cauldrons, like the kind witches use in fairy tales.
He took us behind the shop to his workshop — complete with open fire, bellows and sledgehammers — and showed us his latest creation: a gorgeous Art Deco-style silver vase that reminded me of a Jean Arp sculpture. It was so spectacular that for a moment I forgot all about green pineapples...
Thursday, July 24, 2008
One Visitor's Appreciation
"The next few days were filled with the incredible quality art and culture of the area... [Patzcuaro] is one of the typical most beautiful towns of America. Its magnificent constructions of adobe and tile, monumental temples, and the spectacular Vasco de Quiroga Square converts it into one of the main tourist centers of the Mexican Republic."
Pátzcuaro is, in fact, one of Mexico's better kept secrets--a real gem to discover. I greatly appreciate this traveler's appreciation of our mountain pueblo. Nice photos, as well.
Click on link: Live in Patzcuaro
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Graduation Photos on Plaza Grande
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Michoacan Topography Maps
Today a group of three from Patzcuaro drove to Morelia to buy topographical maps of the Patzcuaro region and environs We visited the Instituto Nacional de Estadística y Geografia (INEGI). The office was inviting, we received very attentive and pleasant assistance, and we each purchased several interesting maps which we will use for wandering, hiking and birding. One look at the relief map pictured above will explain why we were interested in topo maps.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Patzcuaro Birding Club: This Week
For this week's events, visit
Birding in Pátzcuaro & Michoacán, Mexico (and more?)
Monday, July 7, 2008
Quiroga: Fiesta of Christ's Precious Blood
On the first Sunday of July, the busy and commercial little town of Quiroga celebrates its patron with the Fiesta de la Sangre Preciosa. The red in the decorations represents the blood. The town spilled over with people.
We ate at the Rey de las Carnitas. One orders the fork-tender pork by weight and by cut. The rib-meat is moist and falls off the bone.
We left around 4:30 pm after our afternoon comida when the festivities were revving up into high gear.
See this list of Festivals and Events of the Patzcuaro Region.
Sunday, July 6, 2008
Digital Kids in Pátzcuaro
The Biblioteca (Library) in Pátzcuaro is a rich resource for students. Modest in mien and big in digital talent, the Biblioteca's knowledgeable techie, Hilario Martinez Onofre, teaches summer computer classes to a group of eight- to twelve-year-olds.
Hilario won a 2008 prize for his Módulo de Servicios Digitales de la Biblioteca Pública Gertrudis Bocanegra. He placed first in the State of Michoacán and third at national level in Mexico.
The library is a rich Pátzcuaro resource: It houses an acclaimed Juan O'Gorman mural, has a bank of modern computers with Windows XP and internet access (yes, you can check your e-mail here for a modest cost), and to generate income for the purchase of books and supplies, the library sells a bi-lingual brochure interpreting the mural, a CD with interpretation and photos of the mural, DVDs with photos of Noche de Muertos/Night of the Dead and much more.
The Directora/Librarian, Maestra Gloria Blancas López has dedicated virtually her whole professional life to the library and to students in Pátzcuaro. She has instituted programs to teach young people subjects from computer skills to the arts and crafts that represent the heritage of this region rich in Purhépecha tradition.
Saturday, July 5, 2008
Brass Quintet Performs in Pátzcuaro
Metales M5 performed in Pátzcuaro Friday evening, 4 July 2008
I am having just too much fun.
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Monday, June 30, 2008
Birding in Pátzcuaro
We have long been interested birding and because of some fortuitous circumstances and good birding, I have decided to systematize and record our birding activities in Michoacan in one place:
This Pátzcuaro birding weblog includes a checklist of the birds to be found in this region and will include posts on what birds we find, where we find them, and other birding information.
Thursday, June 26, 2008
We are back Patzcuareando...
Saturday, March 29, 2008
A Fine Spring Day in Patzcuaro
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
Calling a Cell Phone Number in Mexico
From the U.S.
To a cell phone in Mexico, you must insert a "1" between the country code and the area (lada) code:
011-52-1-888-888-8888
In Mexico
From a land line phone to a cell phone with a different area code:
Dial 045 before the area code and number - 045-888-888-8888
From a land line phone to a cell phone with the same area code:
Dial 044 before the area code and number - 044-888-888-8888
From cell phone to cell phone:
Simply dial the area code and number - 888-888-8888
Telephone numbers are usually broken into two-digit segments in Mexico. The U.S. convention of 434-342-8888 would be expressed as 43-43-42-88-88, but sometimes as 434-3-42-88-88. The different style of breaking up the numbers equally confuses persons from both sides of the Rio Bravo/Rio Grande.
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Patzcuaro: Good Friday / Viernes Santo
In the evening on Good Friday, in various neighborhoods of the high mountain pueblo of Pátzcuaro, people participate in and watch the solemn processions of the Crucified Christ.
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Purhepecha Corn with Piloncillo
Judas in Patzcuaro
Saturday, March 15, 2008
Friday of Sorrows - Viernes de Dolores
We walked from place to place to visit the altars, and were offered a sweet beverage made from chia seeds. This liquid represents the tears of the Virgin Mary and its sweetness represents her love and compassion.
Saturday, March 1, 2008
Tu or Usted?
Friday, February 1, 2008
On Cultural Time
© Tracy Novinger 2008
American culture teaches its members to “save time”... In Mexico one “spends” time…
Go to http://culturespan.blogspot.com